Edward Dougherty

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Homing In

A review of Bill McKibbens Wandering Home: A Long Walk Across America's Most Hopeful Landscape: Vermont's Champlain Valley and New York's Adirondacks.
NY: Crown Publishers, 2005.

Imagine a 200-mile circle around your home. What's it contain? What stories from history, both native and more recent? How does the topography change? When it rains, what's a random droplet pass on its sea-ward journey? How do people make a living, and how dependent are they on those outside that circle? What's the future hold for that region, your home?

In a culture that prizes new starts and an economy that enforces relocation, "home" isn't primarily a place. Speaking personally in From Where We Stand: Recovering a Sense of Place, Deborah Tall says, "it has been friends, poems, certain paintings and melodies, horizontal lines".Home is a bed to lie down on, a desk to write at, a few talismanic objects hovering nearby." Typically, then, hope comes from work, families, maybe larger issues or communities transcending our physical region. Whatever it is, we have to be able to pack it with us when we move.

For me, the Finger Lakes Region of upstate New York is home, amid rumpled Appalachian foothills, the Chemung River which empties into the Susquehanna en route to the Chesapeake Bay, but my circle dips into Lake Ontario to the north and another watershed to the northeast. It's the state's third most sought-after tourist destination -people flock here for Watkins Glen's races, for Corning's Glass Museum, for the serenity of the slender lakes', and for the wineries along them, before they head off for Niagara or New York City for whatever they've got to offer. I've lived here for a decade now, but I hesitate to call myself a "New Yorker," and still think of myself as a "newcomer." In the midst of this landscape, which I love, where does my hope spring from?

Bill McKibben's Wandering Home is a lively account of a hike through his region bordering Lake Champlain. "I've not been able to drag myself away from this small corner of the planet." His connection to place, and ideas from Edward Abbey and Wendell Berry, inspire a way of imagining "home" that could transform it. For him, it is a motive for living: "what I've done, in my daily life and my political work and my writing, I've done because of these woods..." He says the wild schooled him in what was possible in life -his and more broadly- but it's more than intellectualism. "I fell in love... And having fallen in love, the usual braided combination of selfishness and selflessness led me to try to do what I could to protect them."

What can we draw from his walking tour of this unnamed area? First, his account is entertaining. A clever writer, he can turn a musing on Jet Skis into insights about environmentalism, and his phrasing is witty, like when he's hiked through downpours in sweat-trapping rain-gear: "I've been wetter in my life, but I've never been damper." Or after describing America’s sixth-largest lake, Champlain, he drops in, "Not Great, but great."

We can also reconsider our landscape, neighbors, and wider culture. Concepts are always introduced in the context of his surroundings, and generally, the region he's walking through embodies hopeful ways forward for McKibben. The Vermont side is New England, while the New York side is the Adirondack wilderness -both settled, but the values and skills each has honed and maintained in this era of what he calls "hyperindividualism" can be instructive. "New Englanders have learned a great deal, mostly through trial and error, about how to successfully inhabit a land, experiments that continue to this day; and Adirondackers, often against their will, have learned as much about how to leave land alone."

In his journey from near Middlebury College to his home on Crane Mountain in the Adirondacks, McKibben introduces us to "people who actually know what they're doing out in the physical world" -organic farmers, rangers, microbrewers, sustainable loggers, and many more. This lively cast of characters can carry forward the skills of this country's roots while experimenting with new ways of doing business. For instance, Chris Granstrom, a farmer, could only make ends meet through freelance writing and his spouse's teaching. After years of U-pick strawberries, Granstrom's breeding northern grapevines. He comments on clipping twigs off the vines to transplant elsewhere: "This whole idea of taking cuttings and making them root is kind of magical to me. " Coming from a man working with plants for nearly three score years, that delight is one source of hope, and the book is full of quietly remarkable people like this.

Another source is to embrace contradictions. As we get to know the intricacies of making a living in a region, we inevitably encounter the horns of a dilemma. Corning, like all tourist-sensitive places, must balance year-rounders' with visitors' needs. Ask New Orleans about it. In sprawl-prone places and land-tracts desirable to developers, economic realities threaten attempts to "preserve" the texture of the community. McKibben shows a host of cooperative ventures, micro-corporations, and community enterprises that reveal true Yankee ingenuity, and he's honest about environmentalism's internal contradictions as well.

Finally, as he walks, McKibben muses. Clearly knowledgeable, he's also humble. He easily, even eagerly, shares stage with companions who raise good questions about the nature of "nature," the meaning of "wild," and the extent of responsibility for the workings and fate of a landscape.

These mental detours are wonderfully practical, like the logging dilemmas of woodlot owners. David Brynn explains the business of logging in stumpage and boardfeet. Then McKibben adds that the other half of the battle is "convincing consumers that what they want in their homes is the same thing that the forest wants to yield." Like grain variation. Instead of calling it "flaws," and weakening our forests to produce trees without them, re-imagine it as "character," as Middlebury College did in their new science building. Local lumber, local mills, and McKibben says, "It looks beautiful to the eye, and to the mind's eye, too, because I can walk you to the forest it came from and show you that it's still intact."

Easy to read, Wandering Home does the magic of a good book: after transporting you from your surroundings, it returns you to the farms and businesses, the strip malls and natural resources -with a new perspective, wider questions, and maybe renewed hope.



© Edward A. Dougherty